CARSTEN HÖLLER: The Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto
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If I have guests, I never know what I’m going to cook. Even though I may have some ingredients at home, aging, cur- ing, or just in the cupboard, I like to go shopping for special, rare ingredients. For instance, there’s a mushroom that grows in northern Sweden which is highly appreciated by the Japanese. It’s super expensive. In Japan it costs more than the white truffle. Almost nobody eats it in Sweden, so they ship it to Japan, where there’s a big fuss about it. So, it’s interesting for me, living in Sweden, to contact this one guy picking these mushrooms and ask him to send two, three kilograms to Stockholm. And he does. You have to be knowledgeable about food, curious, and careful about where you can source very special things.
I have some smoked lampreys, an eel-like fish with nine eyes on each side – at least that’s how they look – that sucks blood from other fish. I have two game birds from my supplier, who said he doesn’t know what they are. I have some ants from Mexico, which are delicious. What else? I have some bone marrow. And lots of frozen insects to feed my birds.
As a starter, why don’t we eat chicken brains? I’m sure they would be delicious, especially with regard to the woodcock I ate at El Bulli. In our part of the world, the heads of birds are not usually eaten. What do we do with all the heads of all these chickens that we kill for consumption? So the manifesto is also about using ingredients which are not used, or overlooked, or considered not good enough. By preparing them the right way, you not only make them edible, but you can also make a proper Brutalist dish. In these photos of Brutalist dishes, we have a common sandpiper, which I prepared in Ghana, with the head opened after it accidentally died.
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Artist Carsten Höller is sure there was a eureka moment that led him to write his “Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto,” but when I ask him about it, he cannot quite remember where or when it took place. Perhaps it was a reaction to many dissatisfying haute cuisine experiences. Or perhaps it stemmed from the same libidinal modernism that caused F.T. Marinetti to drive his car into an industrial ditch and write the “Manifesto of Futurism.” As Höller himself describes, the endeavor was marked by a wish to “access a kind of food rare among the restaurant world, one grounded in purity and bringing straightforwardness to a certain extreme.”
1. Don’t think recipe. It’s all about the ingredients. Go shopping and see what you find. Put effort into finding particular ingredients.
Artist Carsten Höller is sure there was a eureka moment that led him to write his “Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto,” but when I ask him about it, he cannot quite remember where or when it took place. Perhaps it was a reaction to many dissatisfying haute cuisine experiences. Or perhaps it stemmed from the same libidinal modernism that caused F.T. Marinetti to drive his car into an industrial ditch and write the “Manifesto of Futurism.” As Höller himself describes, the endeavor was marked by a wish to “access a kind of food rare among the restaurant world, one grounded in purity and bringing straightforwardness to a certain extreme.”
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Artist Carsten Höller is sure there was a eureka moment that led him to write his “Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto,” but when I ask him about it, he cannot quite remember where or when it took place. Perhaps it was a reaction to many dissatisfying haute cuisine experiences. Or perhaps it stemmed from the same libidinal modernism that caused F.T. Marinetti to drive his car into an industrial ditch and write the “Manifesto of Futurism.” As Höller himself describes, the endeavor was marked by a wish to “access a kind of food rare among the restaurant world, one grounded in purity and bringing straightforwardness to a certain extreme.”
Artist Carsten Höller is sure there was a eureka moment that led him to write his “Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto,” but when I ask him about it, he cannot quite remember where or when it took place. Perhaps it was a reaction to many dissatisfying haute cuisine experiences. Or perhaps it stemmed from the same libidinal modernism that caused F.T. Marinetti to drive his car into an industrial ditch and write the “Manifesto of Futurism.” As Höller himself describes, the endeavor was marked by a wish to “access a kind of food rare among the restaurant world, one grounded in purity and bringing straightforwardness to a certain extreme.”
Artist Carsten Höller is sure there was a eureka moment that led him to write his “Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto,” but when I ask him about it, he cannot quite remember where or when it took place. Perhaps it was a reaction to many dissatisfying haute cuisine experiences. Or perhaps it stemmed from the same libidinal modernism that caused F.T. Marinetti to drive his car into an industrial ditch and write the “Manifesto of Futurism.” As Höller himself describes, the endeavor was marked by a wish to “access a kind of food rare among the restaurant world, one grounded in purity and bringing straightforwardness to a certain extreme.”
Artist Carsten Höller is sure there was a eureka moment that led him to write his “Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto,” but when I ask him about it, he cannot quite remember where or when it took place. Perhaps it was a reaction to many dissatisfying haute cuisine experiences. Or perhaps it stemmed from the same libidinal modernism that caused F.T. Marinetti to drive his car into an industrial ditch and write the “Manifesto of Futurism.” As Höller himself describes, the endeavor was marked by a wish to “access a kind of food rare among the restaurant world, one grounded in purity and bringing straightforwardness to a certain extreme.”
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Artist Carsten Höller is sure there was a eureka moment that led him to write his “Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto,” but when I ask him about it, he cannot quite remember where or when it took place. Perhaps it was a reaction to many dissatisfying haute cuisine experiences. Or perhaps it stemmed from the same libidinal modernism that caused F.T. Marinetti to drive his car into an industrial ditch and write the “Manifesto of Futurism.” As Höller himself describes, the endeavor was marked by a wish to “access a kind of food rare among the restaurant world, one grounded in purity and bringing straightforwardness to a certain extreme.”